Backstage Beauty Report

SS2013

Spring is always the time to rock the no-makeup makeup look, and to embrace the natural texture of the hair.  It seems like on the Spring 2013 runways designers were opting for the clothes to do the talking, and the high-maintenence beauty regimens were traded in for simplistic beauty.  That's great news for us at home when the makeup is about luminous skin and the hair is about healthy shine.  

Backstage at Jill Stuart's Spring 2013 show Diane Kendal used Jill Stuart cosmetics to emphasize the eyes very subtly, while leaving the rest of the look barely-there.    

Diane Kendal gave definition to the eyes without mascara using a Jill Stuart Cosmetics eye pencil in Deep Brown, then Kryolin paint on the lids in a reddish-brown tone.  To give the eyes more emphasis and properly frame the face, she defined the brows using Anastasia Brow Powder Duo.  Cheeks were given a subtle flush with MAC Cremeblush in Ladyblush, and then lips were given the tiniest amount of tint on the middle of the lip using Korres Cheek Butter in Chara Crimson.   

Odile Gilbert left the hair healthy and shiny, and gave us a good idea for an easy way to pull the hair off the face so we don't fuss with it.  Odile used prepped damp hair with Mousse Volumactive and blew it dry with a round brush.  

She sectioned off the hair, taking the two front sections behind the ear and tying them together underneath the length of the hair.  She sprayed the sides of the head with Double Force Hairspray, and applied a small amount of Elixir Ultime Moringa Immortel to the length to lock in some shine.  

For a super natural nail look, that you don't have to wait until spring to get, try this look from Butter London at the Band Of Outsiders spring 2013 show. 

Katie Hughes, Global Colour Ambassador for butter LONDON, had this to say about the look:
"She looks like she has manicures weekly.  She doesn't wear lacquer.  She's very easy breezy. She’s very laid back.  You know… minimalist is the word. To get the look we just shaped the nail to mimic the cuticle, which is the most natural shape you can do for each finger.  And then I’ve used the Nail Foundation, which is our base coat.  It has a semi-matte finish so it really holds any lacquer that goes on top of it.  Because of the sort of chalky texture.  But we’ve used one coat, maybe 2 coats of this based on what their natural nail color is like.  just to give that nail a foundation look.  And then I’ve used that at the top, which is our matte finish top coat.  It just looks super buffed, super fresh, and super healthy.  Everything is very minimal and soft.  Effortless!"

  

Like so many shows we saw for Spring 2013, Band Of Outsiders opted for the non-makeup, anti-mascara look.  The main difference we saw here though was the signature white line underneath the eyes that Dick Page created using a Shiseido lab sample of white concealer and their Perfect Foundation Brush.  The only other makeup used here was some Shimmering Cream Eye Color to perfect the brows, in either Sable (BR709) or Leather (BR306) depending on the models' natural brow shade.

The look at Vanessa Bruno was that effortlessly French look that us NYC girls dream of.  Lucia Peroni used Clé de Peau Beauté products to give skin such a healthy glow that mascara is not needed.  Eyes were defined with the bronze shade from Clé de Peau Beauté Eye Color Quad in 208 and the brows were shaped with a new eyebrow pencil.  Lips were given the perfect nude color with Enriched Lip Luminizer in Sweet Nougat (221) or Sugar Candy (222) depending on the model's skin tone.  The finishing touch for this look is definitely the new Luminizing Face Enhancer in Sand Beige (13) for the sun-kissed glow.  

photo courtesy of style.com 

AW2012


The Show: Tracy Reese
Hair:  Jeannie Syfu and the TRESemmé team were giving the models covetable waves.  I love this beachy look that anybody can do at home.  They started by rough drying hair with TRESemmé 24 hour Body Foaming Mousse to work with the models' natural textures.  Next they used a double barrel curling iron to create random, edgy waves (not too uniform, and not all the way down to the ends) throughout the hair.  After the waves were done, they did a rough tease on the surface for a little texture, just kind of messing it up a bit.  They finished the look by wrapping hair a little hair from the sides around a pony and pinning underneath, but leaving a few face-framing layers left out.  They finished the whole look with TRESemmé 24 hr finishing spray.

Makeup: 

Mally Roncal was backstage using her products to create a pop of color on the eyes.  She kept the face simple, using Mally Beauty Effortless Airbrush Blush and Highlighter Duo to contour and give a glow.  Lips were given a neutral color with Mally Beauty Lip Magnifier in Cafe.  The real fun stuff comes with the eyeliner, where Ms. Roncal used Evercolor Starlight Waterproof Eyeliner winged out just past the outer corner of the eye.  The colors that were used on various models were Sailor, Caribbean Sea (pictured on model below), Royal Plum, or Golden.

Nails: 
Sally Hansen's first designer partnership was with Tracy Reese, so it's fitting that they developed 2 very special foiled-effect nail colors for their 13th season together.  This new technology that will be available to us in fall uses real silver pieces and pigments from the Far East for the vibrant colors that you see in Scarab and Copperhead.

Sally Hansen Scarab (available fall 2012)

Sally Hansen Copperhead (available fall 2012)

The Show: Kate Spade

Hair: 

Sleek, straight hair with a blunt bang gave the models a doll-like quality.  Stylists used Rene Furterer  Fioravanti No-Rinse Detangling Spray to prep the models' hair before blowing it dry with a Mason Pearson brush until it's stick-straight.  After hair was blown dry and gone over with a straightening iron, stylists used a little Rene Furterer Myrrhea Silkening Fluid at the ends of the hair for shine and smoothness.  The whole look was finished off with the Rene Furterer Vegetal Finishing Spray for hold.      

Makeup: 

The chocolate smokey eye and ultra-long lashes is undeniably sexy, while not being overdone.  The look was created by Jouer Cosmetics.  First they used the Jouer Luminizing Moisture Tint to create a flawless complexion, then followed up with Age-Repairing Brightener above the cheekbones and around the eye area.   They key component of the look was the smokey eye, which was achieved using Jouer Amaretto Powder Eyeshadow on the lid, and Cappuccino Powder Eyeshadow in the crease.  The look was finished by using a little Peony Powder Blush on the cheeks and Jouer Orchid Tint on the lips.  

Nails: 

Deborah Lippmann created a fun and flirty polka-dot nail to compliment the girlishness of the collection (but still kind of edgy with the long, rounded tip).  Deborah created this look using Fade To Black as the base color, and painting on the polka-dots with I'm Not That Innocent.  Rather than using white polka-dots, she used this creamy pinky peach color, and painted them in random patterns so no 2 nails were alike.

Spring 2012
Spring will bring new beauty trends galore, but you can bring home some products now to achieve that straight off the runway look.
The Show: Helmut Lang

The Look: Temptu and Tigi Catwalk give models a look that is simultaneously bad-ass and feminine.  The Temptu team gave models healthy looking skin using Airpod Foundation and Airpod Blush in Sunset Glow.  They really put the emphasis on the brow for this look, using the new Airpod Brow in Blonde (available Fall 2012), but using the color on the whole eyelid from the brow to the lashline.

To keep the brow emphasis, but still give a finishing touch to the look, the Temptu team used the new Core Lipstick in VIP, which is a nude pink tone (available May 2012).

For the hair it was all about finger-styling, no combs or brushes needed.  For this wet look, stylists used Tigi Catwalk Session Series Salt Spray to give clean hair texture and body to prep for this deconstructed look.  Then Session Series Styling Cream was used excessively to make the hair look wet, but it's not greasy naturally, so the clothes would not be ruined.  All this "wet" hair was pulled back in to a tight ponytail.

The pony was then split in to 2 sections, which were tied in to a knot shape.  The ends were allowed to hang out loosely for a raw, organic look.

The hair was finished off with Your Highness Weightless Shine Spray to enhance the sheen.

What you need now:
Temptu Airbrush Makeup System

Tigi Catwalk Your Highness Weightless Shine Spray

The Show: Dannijo SS2012 jewelry presentation

The Look: Erin Bogart of Sally Hershberger's Downtown salon gave models temporary ombre hair with vibrant colors.  Simple to do at home without committing to permanent hair dye.  

Photo courtesy of Sally Hershberger Downtown

First Erin sprayed thick coats of Pssssst! Dry Shampoo to create a white base for the temporary colors to stick to.  Then Erin used Jerome Russell B Wild Temp'ry Hair Color Spray in blues, purples, pinks, and oranges for color pops, focusing the color on the ends of the hair to create that ombre effect.  

What you need now:

This look is simple to create at home with Pssssst! Dry Shampoo and Jerome Russell B Wild Temp'ry Hair Color Spray. 

The Show: Jen Kao

Photo courtesy of Cutler Salon

The Look: Peter Gray and the Cutler Salon team were giving models a 90's-inspired messy topknot, complete with colored pieces of string braided in to hair.  Hair was blown out using Redken Full Fram 07 volumizing mousse, then separated in to 2 ponytails (one section from the crown of the head to the forehead, the other section the crown of the head to the bottom).  The ponytails were gathered in to a delicate topknot, leaving some of the ends hanging out for an undone finish.
Small braids were made, woven with colored string at the base of the head, and then hair was finished with Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray.

What you need now: Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray.  And of course, some string to weave in to your braid!

The Show: Samantha Pleet

The Look: A smokey eye from MAKE UP FOR EVER and funky braids from the Tresemme hair team, with help from T3 hair tools. 

James Vincent was the lead makeup artist for Samantha Pleet's SS2012 show, using products from MAKE UP FOR EVER.  Pleet's show was inspired by the Swingin' 60's, with a very mod feel, so Vincent created a Twiggy-inspired makeup look.  First he prepped the model's skin with MAKE UP FOREVER HD Invisible Cover Foundation, then gave them fresh, glowing cheeks with HD Microfinish Blush in shades #4 and #6.  The blush pulled double-duty as a lipcolor in shades #4, #6, and #13.  

Then it was time to start the dramatic eye look, starting with MAKE UP FOR EVER Eye Shadow #35 (buff) as a base over the entire lid.  The crease was contoured with Eye Shadow #165 (taupe brown).  Eyeshadow #4 (matte black) was then added over the taupe color to add dimension, before deepening the crease with Eye Shadow #79 (deep plum) for high drama.  Aqua Liner #13 (matte black) was used before adding a double-layer of false eyelashes for those perfect Twiggy lashes.

Meanwhile the Tresemme team was giving the girls a grungy, but romantic braided look.  The models were sprayed with texturizing spray and then hair was curled using the T3 SinglePass Twirl curling iron.  Some of the curls were set in to pins while the team started braiding the remainder of the hair.  Hair was braided using a twisting motion, to provide volume and to give the braids a rope-like texture.  

After the braids were completed, hair was given a hefty dusting of Tresemme Fresh Start Dry Shampoo for a greyish, matte finish.  

What you need now:

For the makeup, MAKE UP FOR EVER Eye Shadow #4 and Aqua Liner #13 for perfecting the smokey eye at home.  

For the hair, T3's Single Pass Twirl.  

Tresemme Fresh Start Dry Shampoo (though clearly you will use much less product at home if you're not going for the grey finish).  

Fall 2011
New York Fashion Week has officially ended, and though we have to wait until Fall 2011 to get a lot of the fantastic clothes that we saw, we can certainly interpret some of the beauty trends to wear now.  Here are some of my favorite shows that I attended, and some tips from some of the best hair and makeup artists around.


The Show: Ivana Helsinki

The Look: Edward Tricomi gives models a sky-high beehive hair do.  Whether you're trying to replicate this beehive, a Snooki poof, or something much more practical, like just trying to create some volume for an up-do, you can take some tips from Edward Tricomi and his team.  Start by backcombing the hair with a teasing comb in the place that you want volume, then finish go over the top with a paddle brush in order to achieve smoothness on the top.

Only Edward can take a model from a crazy head full of teasing, to a smoothed-out beehive in under 5 minutes, but one great tip he had backstage was simply to use a ton of hairspray for hold.

What you need now: A teasing comb for all of your backcombing/teasing needs.  They're super cheap, and an essential to have in your hair wardrobe.  

A paddle brush to smooth out the top of the hair, like this Warren Tricomi cushion brush.


The Show: Libertine

The Look: MAKE UP FOR EVER lead makeup artist Lottie gave models a smokey eye and a beautifully stained berry lip.  First she smoothed out models' skin using HD Invisible Cover Foundation, then contoured their cheeks with Make Up For Ever's Sculpting Kit.
For the eyes Lottie used Aqua Black on the upper and lower lash lines to create a cat-eye shape.  On top of that she blended Eye Shadow #4 (matte black), and finished it off with a coat of Smoky Lash.
The look wouldn't be complete without a sexy pout, so she used Rouge Artiste Intense lip color in #34 for a berry stain.

What you need now: Make Up For Ever Aqua Black for a black liner that will stay put, and Rouge Artiste Intense lip color in #34 for a universally flattering berry color.








The Show: Custo Barcelona
The Look: Maybelline New York lead makeup artist, Gato, created a romantic look with even skin tone and a dramatic red lip. To get the look Gato first used Maybelline Fit Me! Foundation to enhance models’ complexions and give the appearance of flawless skin. He also used Fit Me! Concealer on the nose, forehead, and chin to ensure the skin would be free of any imperfections.  See the video below to see how he used the concealer in a heart-shape to illuminate the cheek and brow bones.
Next Gato used Fit Me! Bronzer to illuminate the cheeks. He also dusted the bronzer from the brown bone to the cheek bones, going around the temple.

For a natural look, Gato chose not to use shadow or eyeliner. He simply used Volum’ Express One by One Mascara in Blackest Black for thick, lush eyelashes.
To add drama to the look, Gato gave the models a deep, red lipcolor using Color Sensational Lipcolor in Ruby Star and Line Express Eyeliner in Ebony Black. Gato mixed the red lipstick with this black eyeliner and then applied it to the lips using a brush.

What you need now: Maybelline Fit Me! Foundation for the illusion of perfect skin, without the heavy cakey feeling. 


The Show: Vera Wang

The Look: Makeup by Lucia Peroni of Clé De Peau Beauté and hair by Orlando Pita with MoroccanOil.
Lucia created a natural skin finish so the focus could be on this edgy smokey eye, using all CDP color collection products.  First she applied Clé De Peau Beauté Silky Cream Foundation (available in September 2011) to even out the skin tone, topping that off with concealer to cover up imperfections, and Translucent Loose Powder for a perfect finish.
Lucia created 3 different variations of the smokey eye: a slate grey combo, and tobacco brown, and a rusty red combo.  To create the slate grey eye, she used CDP Satin Eye Color in Obsidian (#102) from the lid to the brown bone, and also along the lower lash line.  She used the same technique for the other combos, using Satin Eye Color in Chocolate Gold (#113) for the tobacco brown combo, and a brownish-red shade from Eye Color Quad #19 for the rusty red combo.  Each of these colors combos were topped off with Limited Edition Cream Eyeshadow in Moonshadow (available September 2011).  This shade is a smokey bluish-grey with sparkle that really toughened up the look.

Clé De Peau Beauté images courtesy of Mark Van Holden for Clé De Peau Beauté. 

On the lips Lucia used Extra Rich Lipstick in Albertine (T9- also launching September 2011) to give a soft pink lip that is sophisticated, yet doesn't distract from the daring splash of eye color.  
To finish off the look, she opted to highlight the models' bone structure, rather than using a bright cheek color.  To do this she highlighted the cheeks, nose, and temples with Limited Edition Cream Eyeshadow in Moonlight (available September 2011).  This gave a beautiful shimmer to the cheekbones.

For the hair, Orlando Pita used MoroccanOil Luminous Hairspray to create a look that would hold its structure on the runway, but is still fluid and feminine.  First Pita sprayed the top, sides, back, and underneath the hair to give it hold (without stickiness or flaking) for when he was ready to backcomb.  He sprayed the hair again before blowdrying for extra hold.

MoroccanOil pics courtesy of Peter Lueders for MoroccanOil.

After the hair was dry, he backcombed at the nape of the neck, while the rest of the hair was left sleek and smooth.  Then Pita slicked back the front, spraying more hairspray on the section to give it extra shine and to give a textural difference between the front, shiny section, and the more matte section in the back.  Lastly, he pulled the hair back in to a low, loose ponytail a few inches below the nape of the neck where he had backcombed before.

He took the tied portion of the ponytail and pushed it up under, securing it with bobby pins at the nape of the neck for a voluminous shape.

What you need now: Clé De Peau Beauté Satin Eye Color in Obsidian for the perfect smokey eye, and MoroccanOil Luminous Hairspray for hold without stickiness (and it smells great too!).



The Show: Z Spoke by Zac Posen
The Look: Larry Sims creates long, beautiful waves using Got 2 B Rockin It hair products.  Check out this video for Larry's take on these affordable, build-up free hair products.


What you need now: Got 2 B Rockin It Gel for great texture without looking wet or greasy.


I hope adding these items to your collection will help to bring your inner model to life.  Beauty tricks are easy to replicate at home.  Practice makes perfect, but the right products help too.