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Sep 11, 2012

Backstage at Zac Posen Spring 2013

The look backstage at Zac Posen was all about elegance.  There was a refined air to the entire look, from the sleek, shiny hair, to the tonal nails, and long, come hither eyelashes.

Oh HEYYYY Naomi!

Legendary makeup artist, Kabuki, was inspired by the juxtaposition of strength and softness he saw in a photo of Lena Horne from the 60’s.  With the collection being a combo of strong lines and soft fabrications, Kabuki’s idea fit perfectly and he set about adding power brows and lengthy eyelashes to the models. 
“I wanted to do something that would work with every personality and bring that person out.  It’s slightly theatrical because you’re making things bigger, but it’s works with the person’s face.  So that sort of inspires me.  It’s almost like the tricks that we’re doing are not really to transform the person, it’s just almost to enlarge.”
He started with MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation and used Studio Finish Concealer as needed.  Cheeks were sculpted with MAC Sculpting Powder in Bone Beige, and lips were defined with Stripdown Lip Pencil, but the focus of this look was really on the eyes.  Bold brows were created using new eyebrow pencils from MAC, while Fluidline cream eyeliner was used in brown and black shades to define the upper lash lines.  The girls were given a coat of MAC False Lash Mascara before a layer of false lashes were applied, with an extra layer of false lashes at the outer wing (MAC #36 and #44).  A second coat of mascara was applied with a small fan brush to seamlessly blend the real lashes with the falsies, and then the outer corner of the eyeliner was overdrawn in a triangle shape to give a dreamy effect. 

Coco Rocha backstage

Normally backstage is not the time for hair color application, but for the Posen show vibrant hair color was an important piece of the puzzle.  John Frieda International Creative Consultant, Harry Josh, used Precision Foam Colour to enhance models’ shades using tones that closely matched their own hair color, to complement their shades rather than completely change them.
John Frieda Global Creative Consultant Luigi Murenu styled the hair, making it rather severe in the front, but long and flowing in the back.  Starting at the crown Murenu used Frizz-Ease Hair Serum Original Formula, smoothing hair downward from the top of the head to below the ear.  Next he used Frizz-Ease Curl Reviver Styling Mousse to create a severe middle part and blow dry, brushing back away from the face to make sure the crown stays smooth.  Using a 1” curling iron, he wrapped small sections of hair twice around the barrel, stopping before the nape of the neck to help keep the crown flat. Lastly, the hair was brushed out and sprayed with Frizz-Ease Moisture Barrier Firm Hold Hairspray.
Crystal Renn getting some finishing touches right before the show.

Kabuki and Karolina

Models were painted with 1 of 4 color choices from Essie.  Zac really cared about the nails being tonal, but realizes that not every girl has the same skin tone in our great country!  For the fairest of them all, the models were painted with A Crewed Interest (peachy pink).  The medium skin tones got either  Brooch The Subject (beige) or Not Just A Pretty Face (dusty pink).  The deeper skin tones were painted with Glamour Purse (a deliciously silky taupe color).  

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