Feb 16, 2012
NY Fashion Week: Backstage at Jenny Packham AW2012
Jenny Packham’s AW2012 collection look was inspired by Film Noir, which was seductive and dangerous in its aesthetic. Dark makeup and perfectly coiffed hair were signatures of the starlets at that time, and would serve as a perfect compliment to Packham’s collection of plunging or bejeweled necklines.
The makeup: Talia Shobrook led the makeup team using Laura Mercier products and wanted to give the models that glowy skin and hollowed cheekbones that you’d see in Film Noir. This was complimented with deep red lips that were a trademark of the time.
FACE: Talia created the effect of hollowed cheekbones by using shades of Laura Mericer Tinted Moisturizer Compact (Available Fall 2012) that were darker than the models’ skintones. She used Primer in Radiance on the nose, chin and cheekbones to create a dewy effect, then applied Silk Crème Foundation to smooth out the canvas.
EYES: Talia created a dramatic eye by brushing Laura Mercier Luster Eye Colour in Starfruit across the brow bone, and then the Luster Eye Colour in Dusk across the lid, bringing it to the outer corner and continuing on to the lower lash line. The center of the lid got an accent color with Laura Mercier Baked Eye Colour in Violet Sky before the entire eye was lined with Kohl Eye Pencil in Brown Copper. The eyeliner was enhanced with a layer of Sequin Eye Colour in Tiger’s Eye blended over it.
LIPS: The piece de resistance comes from the signature lips of the Film Noir era. Talia outlined the lips with a mixture of Laura Mercier Crème Smooth Lip Colours in Cocoa and Merlot, then filled them with Crème Smooth Lip Colour in Pink Blush (available Fall 2012). Lastly, she used a litte Lip Plumper in Pink Pearl just in the center of the lips to create dramatic fullness and shine.
The hair: Lead hairstylist Leonardo Manetti used L’Oréal Professionnel products to recreate the “victory roll” style of the 40’s. The hairdo was named for the V-shape of the style created when smooth hair is rolled around a Hair Rat (foam piece that was used to provide structure and volume. Trust me, your parents or grandparents totally know what it is).
How To: Section hair from the top of the crown (down the right and left sides just behind the ears), spray with L'Oréal Professionnel Volume Expand Volumizing Leave-In Spray, and blow-dry smooth with a flat brush.
Secure back section into a low ponytail, then comb the entire front section and divide into 3 parts: top, left, and right. (top section should be triangle shaped from each temple to the center of the crown.)
Spray front sections with L'Oréal Professionnel Infinium 2 hairspray and tease to create volume and texture. Comb the top front section forward until smooth. Using a foam roller, or a hair rat if you have access to one, wrap the hair around the foam, rolling the hair under as you go, until you reach the forehead. Bend the ends of the roller back to create the V shape at the center of the forehead, and fasten with pins.
Bring the right side of the rolled up and over to the left, covering any gaps at the front; secure with pins. Repeat for left side (up and over to right).
Spray the back ponytail with L'Oréal Professionnel Infinium 2 hairspray and tease. Cover the teased ponytail with a hairnet and secure with pins. Roll the hair contained in the net up and under to create a second victory roll in a wide U-shape.
Finish off with L'Oréal Professionnel Infinium 3 hairspray for hold and apply L'Oréal Professionnel Perfect Shimmer for shine.
Essie nail pros gave all the girls a coat of Wicked, and added a layer of Cherry Pop to add a nice, pink tone to the color.